Close your eyes and imagine a sparkling emerald mist gently cooling your face, carrying with it the earthy scent of wet leaves and the light melody of chirping birds. This is the kind of vivid experience you can find at Banina Waterfall, a place to relax and hike at any time of year.
Have you ever wanted to enjoy the cool forest air and listen to birds singing? Or find a place to escape the summer heat in the shade, where the sound of running water makes spring and autumn feel magical? Walk with me from the sea into the enchanting forest of Učka Nature Park on the Rijeka side. Together, we can discover the serene beauty and hidden gems that await just beyond the coastline.
Banina waterfall sits on the slopes of Mount Učka, surrounded by thick forest, cool shade, and the gentle sounds of birds. Locals call it “Rečina”, and it quickly became one of my favorite places. I had never heard of it before—no one had mentioned it, and it wasn’t on any map I used. One afternoon, after our usual hike to Ošalj, the leader of our mountaineering school suggested we visit. Most people went home, but about ten of us decided to keep exploring. As we unfolded our map, we were met with blank space where our guide assured us Banina would be. The thrill of stepping into the unknown was palpable, a secret adventure waiting to be discovered. We were the ones who wanted a little more adventure.
The area around the waterfall changes with the seasons, showing off beautiful forest colors that attract not just hikers, but also artists and photographers. On my walk, I realized that the best discoveries are often the ones you don’t plan—the hidden spots you find when you go a little further. After years of hiking, I joined a hiking school to learn more about skills like knots, not just to discover new places. Each trip feels like a brand-new adventure. In these unplanned discoveries, like stumbling upon Banina, lies the true essence of exploration. I want to share the beauty of that autumn day with you in this article.
Hiking to the Banina waterfall offers a full Učka experience: a creature of emerald and green colours
Banina Waterfall or “ Rečina ”, as the locals call it, will certainly be a place that will often be adored not only by hikers, but also by artists or photographers. Depending on the time of year, the forest will not lack in colour.
In autumn, the forest displays golden beech leaves that light up the surroundings. In spring, hornbeam trees begin to bud, showing coppery and reddish-brown leaves. Summer brings abundant greenery, covering the landscape in deep shades of green. Each season shapes the scenery and atmosphere, from the crisp, colourful air of fall to the vibrant renewal of spring and the lush fullness of summer. The water forms cascades as it flows, descending along slopes into small lakes, and adds a unique charm in every season. The hiking trail is well-marked. At one point, we cross the stream over a small bridge, and in some places, we can even jump over the stream. In spring, the increased water flow is noticeable, but most walkers can cross without difficulty.
Access points to the Banina waterfall from all slopes of Učka
If you turn toward Učka National Park from Rijeka, follow the road up to the old Ina resort, about a 30-minute drive from Rijeka and covering about 20 kilometres. From there, a forest path takes you easily to a spot above the tunnel, where you’ll find a waterfall nearby. The trails from the Poklon pass or the Rijeka side are even more interesting, and all of them lead to the waterfall.
From the “Poklon” pass (922 m.) across the “ Bubač ” ranch to the Banina waterfall
Poklon is one of the most popular starting points for reaching the waterfall. You don’t need a whole day for this trip. For example, we went to Banina one afternoon after lunch with fellow hikers and finishing our route to Ošalj peak. This time, we wanted to try something different from our usual climb to Vojak.
We start our descent via the “Educational Trail for Children.” Here’s a simple checklist for navigation:
1. Walk for about 10 minutes downhill to reach the sign for “Slap.”
2. Continue straight until you arrive at a large meadow and reach the trail leading to the stream.
3. Cross the stream, turn left, and you will soon notice “Ranc Bubač.”
Ranch Bubač: a home in the deep shade of the forest
Ranch Bubač, nestled deep in the forest shade, always radiates a sense of calm. The owners are ever ready to offer warm hospitality, and even as you approach, you’ll often hear a warm, “Welcome, feel free to explore and enjoy the tranquillity,” inviting you to relax and feel at home in this serene environment. The horses, tame and accustomed to people, might approach you with a friendly snort, almost as if beckoning you for a ride through the surrounding terrain. The first time I walked past the ranch, this homely warmth was palpable, as if the forest and the animals were sharing the same story. The sound of leaves underfoot, the earthy scents, the quiet of the woods—all these elements created a feeling of adventure in a true ‘off-road’ style, yet it was comfortable and safe. Continuing along the path, the forest seemed to embrace us, with every step deepening the sense that this journey was not just through nature but through a living, breathing world full of quiet surprises.
As we walked past the ranch, the forest felt like it surrounded us, quiet and peaceful. The sound of leaves and sunlight filtering through the trees made me realise this hike was more than just a walk—it was a chance to really connect with nature. Leaving the ranch’s shade, I felt like the adventure was just beginning, with new paths, streams, and hidden spots ahead.
Hiking above the waterfall
We cross the stream and soon climb a steep path above the water. The weather forecast says it might rain, but our group of five isn’t worried, even though that won’t keep us dry. We follow the sign for Banina and soon see the water again. Along the way, you can spot interesting plants, like the protected “Bear’s Onion” (Allium Ursinum), which looks a lot like the poisonous “Convallaria.” On wet days, you might also see a salamander (Salamandra salamandra). If you’re lucky and quick with your camera, you can get some great photos.
The path to the canyon is easy to follow. As we go down to the stream, we walk through a wide valley and start to hear the sound of the waterfall. Following the stream, we hear water and birds singing in the beech forest. The closer we get, the louder the water sounds—until finally, we see the waterfall.
Artificial waterfall with beautiful cascades
Many photographers will agree that a stay here is special. The motif of the infinite flow of water is valuable for the eyes and ears, and therefore for the camera. The unique harmony of water and forest. In the valley, it is easy to cross the stream. In the summer months when the water drops below the level, the stream is dry.
The water flow on the “Banina” was created by extending the excess level of drinking water intended for the cities at the foot of Učka, Rijeka, and Opatija. All the accumulated water above the level that remained in the basin forms a waterfall, making it one of the most beautiful sights of the “Učka National Park”. This is the waterfall called “Banina”, as well as many other smaller waterfalls or cascades in the further course of the small bed of this river. Next to the waterfall, we find a small statue of “Our Lady of the Falls”.
Return to Poklon pass
On the way back to Poklon, there are a few different paths you can take. I suggest making a loop. First, navigate the steep initial ten minutes to reach the road to Bubač Ranch. From there, follow the wide forest road to the old Ina resort, which takes about half an hour. Then, it’s another half hour uphill to Poklon. For an easy memory-friendly recap: bridge, meadow, ranch, tunnel—let the rhythm guide your journey and make every step a memorable part of this adventure.
The return from Banina to Poklon takes one hour. So, the total time planned for this route is approximately 2.5 hours. A very nice use of time for recreation, socialising in a small or large group, and excursions, including excursions with children. The path from Poklon to the Banina waterfalls is one of the most beautiful trails on the route from Poklon, and even more so because colleagues from the Mountaineering Society Opatija (PD Opatija) have arranged this beautiful path with markings.
Advice for rainy weather
During the rains, especially in autumn, when the trail is covered with leaves, it seems very slippery, so caution is advised. On slippery terrain, it is advisable for beginners to be accompanied by a more experienced hiker. Sometimes poles can be very useful. Rather than rushing, take the opportunity to savor each slick leaf underfoot and enjoy the deliberate luxury of a slower pace. Walking through such terrain invites you to be present, allowing you to truly appreciate the beauty of nature around you.